The weekend before the eclipse, August 19th and 20th, we stayed in Portland for a short getaway. We didn’t have any fixed plans, but browsing yielded a big draw: The Multnomah Falls, and the Columbia River Gorge. It’s amazing to me that there are these beautiful places I’m hardly aware of… and this sounded wonderful.
We didn’t know then that it was just in time – that only a few days later, fire would roll over the whole area we visited.
What we were concerned about that day was crowds. Multnomah Falls is notoriously busy, especially on weekends, especially the day before the eclipse when many eclipse-tourists would be in town. Like us. We were right; by the time we got there, the exist to the Falls was blocked because there were too many cars in the parking lot.
BONNEVILLE DAM
Instead, we drove on to the Bonneville Dam. It was very impressive. The gush of white water threw up a mist over the river.
Linking my video from Facebook: Rushing waters at Bonneville Dam
The visitor center had a fish ladder with migrating fish
Also lampreys, which I’d read about frequently but have not seen before. But we missed seeing the ancient sturgeon, Herman. (Fortunately, he’s survived the fire, so I hope to see him another time.)
After Bonneville Dam, we kept going, absorbed in the river vistas on our left and steep tree-clad hills on our right.
MITCHELL POINT
At Mitchell Point, we made a stop to look at the view. The information sign had an interesting, rather poignant story about what used to be there – a beautifully designed tunnel, destroyed when the new highway was built, and a roadhouse that eventually closed down and faded away.
We climbed a trail into green woods, but not too far. We wanted to see more of the river gorge.
THE COLUMBIA GORGE HOTEL
At Hood River, we decided to turn back – and then we came, serendipitously, upon the absolutely charming Columbia Gorge Hotel and stopped for coffee.
It’s a historic and charming hotel sitting between a brilliant garden and a glorious river.
We sat on the patio for coffee and a snack, enjoying the view and the flowers.
Driving back, we had to decide between crossing to the other side of the river, or retracing our steps.
MULTNOMAH FALLS
We decided not to cross, because I hoped that by the time we got there, the Multnomah Falls would be accessible. And they were! Still quite crowded, but no more than Yosemite in summer, for instance.
It was altogether delightful, and we thought we’d come back. It’s easy from Seattle.
Only two weeks later, I was horrified to learn of the Eagle Creek fire engulfing the very area we’d visited, roaring through all that beauty and threatening the Multnomah Falls. As I write this, it sounds like it’s been saved. Thank you, firefighters!
KEYAN BOWES 